Convertible Top Screw

[mrheehee]

I recently had trouble with the convertible top hold down screw mechanism. Thanks to Sandy's advice about not running it down all the way I avoided a major headache. I took the motor apart and greased everything and it worked better but it was not the improvement I was looking for. The motor still ran much slower going up than down. I realized that when going up it also energized the solenoid to release the deck lid and kept it energized until the switch was released. I disconnected the solenoid and the motor runs the same speed up and down. I cleaned all the grounds I could find with no improvement. I figure it's just age and use, but I really can't afford to just replace all of the components.

I'm for originality as anyone, so I'm wondering how to fix this - any ideas?

I'm thinking - put the solenoid wire on a timer set for 2 seconds or so, it will release the lid and then open the circuit so the motor will not have the power loss. But this would involve a little wiring and non-stock components.

[negusm]

A couple of things.

Are you sure this isn't how they all worked? Maybe they were all slower up than down?

Is the Motor running in series with the solenoid and together both are pulling too much juice? If that is the case then something is probably getting hot then. Have you tested by putting the solenoid in parallel with the motor? If this works better then all you need is a relay added.

If it is in parallel, then its not going to be the motor, the entire circuit all the way back to the battery is getting overloaded. I'm guessing if you run things for a bit the wire that feeds the circuit is getting hot somewhere. Basically you need to find the bottleneck and remove it with probably a slightly larger wire and possibly a larger fuse. DO NOT just increase the fuse rating without updating the circuit. That's how you burn down a car.

If it is in series with the motor, all you need is a relay. Run power to both the motor and the relay so they are in parallel. Wire the solenoid to the relay. Then wire the "on" wire from the motor to the solenoid control post.

I hope this helps...I can help better if I have a schematic. I'm sure there is one but I don't pay attention to the verts too much.

-Mike

[tfs2121]

I can help better if I have a schematic. I'm sure there is one but I don't pay attention to the verts too much.

-Mike

sorry me too. anyone want to post a schematic?

[mrheehee]

Sorry, I wasn't too clear - I think the reason the motor runs slow going up because it keeps the release solenoid energized, using some of the power that would otherwise run the motor.

So the relay idea would work, but all that's really needed is a way to allow the solenoid to energize and release the latch and then shut off - that's why I was thinking a timer, to let it release and then shut off.
I'm going to try it this weekend and I'll post results.

[negusm]

Sorry, I wasn't too clear - I think the reason the motor runs slow going up because it keeps the release solenoid energized, using some of the power that would otherwise run the motor.

But you have to ask yourself the question, "Why is there not enough power going to the circuit to power BOTH devices correctly?". I should think that a car battery should have enough juice to do a job like that even with the alternator off. So if that is the case, you have a bottleneck somewhere in the circuit.

Now if you set things up with a timer, that could indeed fix the problem. Kick the solenoid, then power the motor. You are in effect reducing the power requirements of the circuit.

What kind of timers are available? My guess is that you will still need a relay to be driven by said timer to make the solenoid kick on and off.

-Mike

[Sandy]

UMmmm, me thinks Coupe owners are a wee bit....ah....snooty !

"I don't pay attention to the verts too much. "

[tfs2121]

sorry. maybe one day i will own one and theni will...

[negusm]

UMmmm, me thinks Coupe owners are a wee bit....ah....snooty !

"I don't pay attention to the verts too much. "

Yeah, it comes out a bit wrong.

A better phrase might be...."I don't pay attention to vert details too much".

When you don't have something or hanlde it, touch it feel it, you tend to gloss over it.

-Mike

[mrheehee]

But you have to ask yourself the question, "Why is there not enough power going to the circuit to power BOTH devices correctly?". I should think that a car battery should have enough juice to do a job like that even with the alternator off. So if that is the case, you have a bottleneck somewhere in the circuit.

I agree, and twenty years ago it probably was enough power. But with the motor operating with reduced current all these years, the deterioration of ground points and power wire connections it isn't enough now. Personally I consider it to be poor engineering but I doubt much thought was given to how long it would work beyond 5 years or so.

I have a couple timers, which are really timed relays but can be used to interrupt a single wire. They're a little bulky so I have to figure out where to put it.

I'll let you know how it works.

[Sandy]

I am sorry that you guys missed the fact that I was only joking, 'Ya know, "tongue in cheek....
we all love All ascMcLarens & it shows!

[mrheehee]

Ok - I finally got to try it - it works. When then release solenoid shuts off the motor runs as fast going up as down and the screw comes right up. I just need a different timer, this one says it has a minimum of ten seconds run time, actually it shuts down in 4 seconds.

Now I feel ok about buying a new top, I'm thinking the NOS top is the way to go. Mine could be stitched up but the two shops I took it to both said to get a new one. One guy said he could get one with a glass rear window, which is not possible, so I won't be going back to him.

My original top is not that bad, I think the windows could be polished. Certainly it would serve being as I rarely have the top up and mostly use a cover. The main problem I see is the strips across the middle, they were glued on to the top and have come loose. Anyone know what the adhesive was? Or perhaps they could be sewn on and seam-sealed?

[negusm]

For all purpose stuff, I find GOOP works wonders for things like shoes, etc.

It holds very very well, especially fabrics.

-Mike

[baldheadedsuperfreak]

i replaced the plastic in my top twice before replacing the entire top...got the top from hank in 93 i believe $700 perfect fit. now thay i have the car back im noticing a slight gap on the pass. side rear where it meets the toneau..looking from the inside the black mketal bracing where the 2 allen screws are is a bit higher on the pass, side. tried readjusting these screws and the angle the 2 pieces of metal meet to no avail...

[svo413]

My original top is not that bad, I think the windows could be polished. Certainly it would serve being as I rarely have the top up and mostly use a cover. The main problem I see is the strips across the middle, they were glued on to the top and have come loose. Anyone know what the adhesive was? Or perhaps they could be sewn on and seam-sealed?

Not sure what year you have but the center 2 bows are just velcro sewn the the top. The front edge is glued down by the windshield and the same at the tonneau. If you fabric and windows are not damaged, I would not go for a new top. This is my personal opinion after havin installed a NOS top 2 years ago and not totally happy with it on my 85.