It doesnt look to bad at all to be honest. The interior looks really clean and in shape. Just the exterior needs tlc. Any major rust or bodywork you have to deal with? The heck with it why dont you paint it orange with metalic blue striping, lol jk. It would look pretty good black with orange, tinted windows, perhaps the aftermarket side window from an 87-93 Mustang w/o the "Mustang" printed on it, if it would even fit. But I am still partial to stock. No matter what color you pick you will get used to it and perhaps bored but leaving it stock color you wont ever regret. If you paint it any other color you will be second guessing as most I have seen do.
Hey do you have any more pics of the aero fox GT with the mystic paint? Would love to see more.
Nick
will anyone care?!?!?!?!?!?
there is no rust, only surface on the doors and one quarter where it must have been hit before, you can see where it was re painted and well the hatch is holes under where the latch part is like most cars but that should be easy to replace . other than that the interior has 2 cracks in the dash and a 2 inch tear in the driver seat and yes its sideways from bangin gears! other than that just shampoo and perfect interior..i know the body would take nothing to restore but the rest, brakes, suspension, engine..ill have to go like mike until i get old and bored and decide to find everything and make it completly original. i guess i could find "original" engine parts buttttt i would like the ORIGINAL NEW engine parts but that would be ..yea..their prolly in the garbage ! lol
so ill have it look like it does on the outside, it'll still turn heads..black and orange? still dont know..i want the outside bettter tahn the original.inside..cd player speakers no subs thats all..and .. he car wil run around low 11's street and take a road course with out excess roll and slidin all over.. we'll see! thansk for the input though..
so ill have it look like it does on the outside, it'll still turn heads..black and orange? still dont know..i want the outside bettter tahn the original.inside..cd player speakers no subs thats all..and .. he car wil run around low 11's street and take a road course with out excess roll and slidin all over.. we'll see! thansk for the input though..
Shaine, does the car currently have the original engine and transmission? The engine/tranny will have the Vin CUN stamped on it...mine does.
"Correct" parts are one thing but numbers matching really means that ALL date codes need to be correct too. A carb, intake, transmission, bell housing, water pump, timing cover, radiator, etc etc would all have to be located with casting dates of about 2-4 weeks prior to the build date to make it right.
-Mike
"Correct" parts are one thing but numbers matching really means that ALL date codes need to be correct too. A carb, intake, transmission, bell housing, water pump, timing cover, radiator, etc etc would all have to be located with casting dates of about 2-4 weeks prior to the build date to make it right.
-Mike
1985 ascMcLaren Coupe - Midnight Blue
Under Restoration
Under Restoration
i do have the original block, and pistons rods and crank other than that new cam and all bolt ons..but valve covers do say powerd by ford..original? i have the original tranny which is blown up.i have the tag on it, i think the pilot bearing started going out..let the tranny jump so i would grind in third gear some..and well made teh input shaft jump and when i got it apart after ALL gears were gone , the input shaft was just GONE! lol almost flat the gear, and reall thats all.i could rebuild it..but yea what do you mean original? or "correct"
so i can get the outside stuff for body, easy, uncle owns a body shop, the interior no problem..engine drivetrain, all normal bolt ons, original radiator with the tag that says mclaren coupe coupe or w/e so id say im decently well off! its a real mclaren!
so i can get the outside stuff for body, easy, uncle owns a body shop, the interior no problem..engine drivetrain, all normal bolt ons, original radiator with the tag that says mclaren coupe coupe or w/e so id say im decently well off! its a real mclaren!
The Powered by Ford covers are original.
Original is just that....it was the part the car left the factory with.
When I say "Correct" I mean that a part might be correct like the casting number is correct on it but the date cast into it may be wrong for the car.
It's very hard to get back to that level of restoration on a car if you go and try to get all the date codes to line up with the build date. To me that's "numbers matching" on a Ford. On other cars, they stamped the vins in many places for many many years before Ford started. "Numbers Matching" on an old Corvette takes on a whole new meaning.
On my car, the drivetrain is mostly original. I am missing the original radiator, carb and hoses and wires, etc. If you go through the date codes on the heads, intake, carb, etc or wherever they are very close to the date the car was built (jan 85). I'm trying to run down a correct datecoded carb, the rest like the radiator, I'll ignore since much of the stuff outside the engine/transmission will probably be replaced with NOS stuff since the original stuff was beat by years of use.
-Mike
Original is just that....it was the part the car left the factory with.
When I say "Correct" I mean that a part might be correct like the casting number is correct on it but the date cast into it may be wrong for the car.
It's very hard to get back to that level of restoration on a car if you go and try to get all the date codes to line up with the build date. To me that's "numbers matching" on a Ford. On other cars, they stamped the vins in many places for many many years before Ford started. "Numbers Matching" on an old Corvette takes on a whole new meaning.
On my car, the drivetrain is mostly original. I am missing the original radiator, carb and hoses and wires, etc. If you go through the date codes on the heads, intake, carb, etc or wherever they are very close to the date the car was built (jan 85). I'm trying to run down a correct datecoded carb, the rest like the radiator, I'll ignore since much of the stuff outside the engine/transmission will probably be replaced with NOS stuff since the original stuff was beat by years of use.
-Mike
1985 ascMcLaren Coupe - Midnight Blue
Under Restoration
Under Restoration
mike you going to tell us whare to look on the block and or tranny for the CUN... i have had my motor out for almost a year and still dont know if its original but i am 99% sure it isnegusm wrote:Shaine, does the car currently have the original engine and transmission? The engine/tranny will have the Vin CUN stamped on it...mine does.
"Correct" parts are one thing but numbers matching really means that ALL date codes need to be correct too. A carb, intake, transmission, bell housing, water pump, timing cover, radiator, etc etc would all have to be located with casting dates of about 2-4 weeks prior to the build date to make it right.
-Mike
~Peter
1985 ASC McLaren Coupe
1985 ASC McLaren Coupe
The Year, Assembly plant and CUN are what you will find (last 8 vin digits). One is stamped on top of the block towards the rear on top of the flat area just behind the intake manifold. It is very very light stamping and you may need to view it just right to see it. Mine was painted over when we painted the block and cannot be seen.
On the passenger side of the transmission, my last 8 vin digits are stamped clear as day VERTICALLY on the front edge/lip. Check both sides. Look for an "FF######" for 85 cars and "GF######" for 86 cars.
-Mike
On the passenger side of the transmission, my last 8 vin digits are stamped clear as day VERTICALLY on the front edge/lip. Check both sides. Look for an "FF######" for 85 cars and "GF######" for 86 cars.
-Mike
1985 ascMcLaren Coupe - Midnight Blue
Under Restoration
Under Restoration
In my opinion, dude, its your car. if it is one that you love and one that you are not going to get rid of do what you like. nobody can tell you what your car should be, if it makes someone mad, they don't have to look at it. besides, for the people trying to turn their car into an investment, you moding yours will only make theirs that much more valuable. I myself am considering what to do with my 88, no interior(was horrid when i got it) some body damage, no motor/trany. It would take more for me to put it back to stock than it would be to make it my own. if it is something you think you may want to sell one day, only do things that can be reversed, keep the original parts in the garage if you like. just my .02 cents
mike i dug my block out of the garage yesterday and i cleand the top and wire brushed it but still no numbers... are there any other places i can looknegusm wrote:The Year, Assembly plant and CUN are what you will find (last 8 vin digits). One is stamped on top of the block towards the rear on top of the flat area just behind the intake manifold. It is very very light stamping and you may need to view it just right to see it. Mine was painted over when we painted the block and cannot be seen.
On the passenger side of the transmission, my last 8 vin digits are stamped clear as day VERTICALLY on the front edge/lip. Check both sides. Look for an "FF######" for 85 cars and "GF######" for 86 cars.
-Mike
~Peter
1985 ASC McLaren Coupe
1985 ASC McLaren Coupe
How hard did you clean it? I have been told, the ones on the block are very very faint. So faint that you have to get the light just right and look at it at an angle.tfs2121 wrote: mike i dug my block out of the garage yesterday and i cleand the top and wire brushed it but still no numbers... are there any other places i can look
Your block may not be stamped.
Did you check your T5 transmission case?
Look on your block (I think by the starter) and give me the casting numbers (all that you can find). This is the other way to determine if your block is correct as the dates should line up with your build.
-Mike
1985 ascMcLaren Coupe - Midnight Blue
Under Restoration
Under Restoration
Good evening all-- Saw in some posts as to the manual trannys in Capri in 1983. My specifications book for 83 say there was 3 manual trannys available a 4 sp Ford made in Germany for small engines, a 4 sp od TREMEC and a 5sp od TREMEC for the 5.0 HO. Somewhere I have the gear ratio but can't find at this time. Ford puts out a year spec book that is nice to refer to. My two bits worth keep the car as near stock and do one of two things garage and show and trailer of take good care and drive and enjoy. Do love these cars. Larry
Isnt the location different depending on when the block was manufactured? I remember mine were on the left hand side of block (opposite of the starter motor).
If I got it right last time what I saw on block was:
E7TE-ca 27 26 45
I know the first part but not the rest. Like how that casting date is decoded? Think that is what it is.
Nick
If I got it right last time what I saw on block was:
E7TE-ca 27 26 45
I know the first part but not the rest. Like how that casting date is decoded? Think that is what it is.
Nick
Ok I dug up the rest of the information I had gotten from the Tech I spoke to on the phone nearly 6 years ago. Gotta love the internet lol.
"All blocks after 85 are roller. If the heads have three ribs on either the front or back they are GT40 iron heads. He said to pull the distributor out and look for paint on the cam, if you can not see it then turn motor and check again. If it is green it is a "B" cam, if it is orange or red it is a "E" cam."
Hope this helps somebody somehow.
Nick
PS I remember seeing yellow somewere else on the block after the phone call so never asked lol.
"All blocks after 85 are roller. If the heads have three ribs on either the front or back they are GT40 iron heads. He said to pull the distributor out and look for paint on the cam, if you can not see it then turn motor and check again. If it is green it is a "B" cam, if it is orange or red it is a "E" cam."
Hope this helps somebody somehow.
Nick
PS I remember seeing yellow somewere else on the block after the phone call so never asked lol.
i was hopeing to find my CUN stamped in the block like mike did any other places to look for that?ASCMCLRN wrote:Isnt the location different depending on when the block was manufactured? I remember mine were on the left hand side of block (opposite of the starter motor).
If I got it right last time what I saw on block was:
E7TE-ca 27 26 45
I know the first part but not the rest. Like how that casting date is decoded? Think that is what it is.
Nick
~Peter
1985 ASC McLaren Coupe
1985 ASC McLaren Coupe
My best advice would be to call the tech hotline (810-468-1356). This number is for the Ford Racing Performance Parts and they were the ones that helped me last time with this question when I was looking for mine. Hope this helps and please give us a follow up.tfs2121 wrote:i was hopeing to find my CUN stamped in the block like mike did any other places to look for that?ASCMCLRN wrote:Isnt the location different depending on when the block was manufactured? I remember mine were on the left hand side of block (opposite of the starter motor).
If I got it right last time what I saw on block was:
E7TE-ca 27 26 45
I know the first part but not the rest. Like how that casting date is decoded? Think that is what it is.
Nick
Nick