stalling whenI Turn

Post by **negusm** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 6:23 pm

I believe 79-93 are the same switch.

The 87-93 cars are just more popular, that is why you saw more complaints.

-Mike

Kentennis · Post by **Kentennis** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 12:21 am

I don't see how they're 'more popular', in fact, in my opinion, the prepondernce of the 87's and newer, have dragged down the value of the Capri versions. There are just too many of them, and they don't look much different than the Mustang GT's. And the GT's are bringing as much, or more, than the ASC mcLarens. And the performance is no better.

Post by **negusm** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 12:46 am

Kentennis wrote:I don't see how they're 'more popular'

I don't either but they just are.

-Mike

capri50asc · Post by **capri50asc** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 1:21 am

Thanks guys for the update. Just want to make sure that my car is safe

Havoc · Post by **Havoc** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 12:42 am

Mike your money- Weather has been bad here the last 2 weeks and got a beautiful day to get this done. The Ignition switch was my problem.

Took 5 minutes and a #6 star socket.

As you can see mine was splitting apart.

avmtdan · Post by **avmtdan** » Sun Feb 13, 2011 2:05 am

Sweet man, glad you got her fixed and it wasn't anything major.

Post by **negusm** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 2:20 am

Cool! Glad to know it was an easy fix.

-Mike

RareFox · Post by **RareFox** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:41 pm

Whoa - I never heard about this potentially catastrophic problem! Can this faulty switch cause a fire with the keys out, engine off, and car just sitting unattended? Anyone shed some additional light on this please?

Never came across any posts specifically about this major issue... here, or anywhere else! For the record I'm not an FEP member. My four-eyed '85 was unfortunately demolished long before Al Gore invented the internet.

capri50asc · Post by **capri50asc** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:50 pm

I have two Capris in my garage. I hope they are not fire traps. One I have had since 1992. No issues. I also check a bunch of websites and the Mercury Dealership. No records or recalls.

Who knows of one that has started on fire?

Chris

avmtdan · Post by **avmtdan** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:56 pm

Yes, they can start fire at any time if they have not been changed. It is best to get a post recall switch from ford and change them out. I had heard stories of the cars catching fire in peoples garages and losing the whole house.

The switch has power going to it at all times thru the fusible links, hence if the battery is hooked up, the switch is considered hot at all times. If you are unsure if the switch has been replaced before, unplug your battery when your not using the car. It is a pretty serious issue.

RareFox · Post by **RareFox** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 9:07 pm

Ok, came across a 'Stang site that lays it all out... great article with photos of the procedure from start-to-finish. Procedure is for all years from '79-to-'93. As always, thanks to all for the sharing of your knowledge and information! Guess I'll be adding this switch (or at the very least carefully inspecting it) VERY soon to the huge laundry list of spring-time repairs...

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/5657/index.html

Havoc · Post by **Havoc** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 11:02 pm

This Switch was causing me a lot of problems. All I had to do was touch the wheel or the column a certain way and the car would go dead. It was dangerous when turning in busy intersections and the car would shut off.

My Gauges would die and com back on. really weird stuff. The part is 12 bucks at Autozone and took at the most 10 minutes to replace. I spent more time making sure the plastic around the column was proper aligned than I did with the repair.

capri50asc · Post by **capri50asc** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 11:14 pm

Hi guys

What tools will I need to complete this job? Anything special. Should I disconnect the battery?

Thanks Chris

RareFox · Post by **RareFox** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 11:19 pm

The sudden concern to avoid a spontaneously combusting Mustang led to discovery of the original NHTSA recall data from 1996. Apparently this switch issue could potentially affect quite a few Ford products built during the similar '87 - '93 era in particular. Ford claims switches built before and after these dates were of a modified design with reduced instances of failure. This was a vendor related problem directly associated with a running manufacturing change by the company who provided the switches to Ford during this time period.

Here is the full 40-page document in .PDF format for those who are interested in reading more. Pretty interesting data on how major manufacturers test components and make an assessment on their failure rate as to whether to issue a recall or just a TSB (technical service bulletin).

What I gathered from it and other sources is that reducing the start-up load on the electrical system that is channeled through the switch can have a significant effect. i.e. turn off the HVAC blower motor and any other non-essential accessories when first starting the car. This dramatically reduces the electrical current load going through the switch.

Just passing the information along. Not sure if this post should've been pinned as a new topic or not. I'll leave that to Mike to ultimately decide. Here's the link:

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/docse ... 071-NN.PDF

Havoc · Post by **Havoc** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 11:41 pm

#6 Star socket and a Phillips head to remove the plastic around the column.

Yes Disconnect the battery

the keys are in the ignition on the pic as I was taking a pic to show the guys at auto zone what socket I needed.

ascMcLaren Enthusiasts

stalling whenI Turn

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Fire! Fire!

Faulty Ing, switch

The Cure...

Faulty Ing, switch

NHTSA ignition switch recall