conv. top help

[90asc]

I can't get my top to unscrew. Any ideas? Thanks, John

[plumkrazy]

Sorry I cannot help.

Just dissapointed nobody has any words of wisdom.

Come on members any Ideas

[#67 Black Mac']

I don't have any technical help to offer you, but mine doesn't work either.
I just pull the emergency rip cord to pop the cover when I want to put the top down. When putting the top back up, I give the plastic cover a pretty good push to close it again while holding the back edge of the top down tight against it with the other hand.

Someday I may attempt to tackle the problem with a fix instead of a detour.---lol

[Sandy]

NO promise here.

Get a friend, wife, bum..whatever...

YOU lift hood & disconect 1 of the battery cables.
Have the above person on the count of "3"
push the button to the correct postion for sending the big fat screw up from the tonneau.
WHILE above human is holding in the button YOU connect the battery!

Sometimes, the sudden surge of power will lurch free the screw.
Otherwise...I have no idea.
HOWEVER - if it does get free, never again hold the button down to the very end of the cycle !!!!!!!!!!!
Always leave 1 inch of downward travel not done, so that you can pull it down, to free it up, so that you can go the reverse directuion.

[shelbyscarab]

NO promise here.

Get a friend, wife, bum..whatever...

YOU lift hood & disconect 1 of the battery cables.
Have the above person on the count of "3"
push the button to the correct postion for sending the big fat screw up from the tonneau.
WHILE above human is holding in the button YOU connect the battery!

Sometimes, the sudden surge of power will lurch free the screw.
Otherwise...I have no idea.
HOWEVER - if it does get free, never again hold the button down to the very end of the cycle !!!!!!!!!!!
Always leave 1 inch of downward travel not done, so that you can pull it down, to free it up, so that you can go the reverse directuion.

I'm in the same boat. My top motor stopped working end of last summer. Top is up. Can't get to the motor to get it removed and replaced as you can only flip up the tonneau up so far since the top screw won't retract at all. (meaning I hit the button, tonneau releases! but the screw won't retract.) sucks. I've just had too many other things going on to worry about it.

[Kentennis]

Yes, these tops can be a pain in the ass! My adjustment screw came loose. I haven't messed with it yet, since the top is down 99% of the time.

The adjustment is tricky on the Capri's, don't know about the Mustang versions. may not be the same set up.

[90asc]

I tried to do what Sandy said but no luck. Time for plan b.

[KHummel66]

Sorry, I got nothing. Mine are both Capri's, so they have a latch hook, not a screw. As such, both the top to tonneau and tonneau to body can be manually latched and unlatched. Don't really need the power actuation.

[Sandy]

I am really sorry thst my suggestion did not help. Maybe...contact Henry Huesman ?

To others with 1987-1990 Mustang verson.

When putting the top UP.... and as you push the rocker switch, that pulls the big screw down into the hole on the tonneau cover.....

PUSH THE BUTTON WITH YOUR LEFT HAND FINGER AND PUT A RIGHT HAND FINGER UNDER THE BOTTOM OF THE CONVERTIBLE TOP, WHEN THE HEM IS, THAT WOULD BE THE EDGE OF THE MATERIAL THAT SITS ON TH THE TONNEAU, WHEN YOU FEEL IT TIGHTEN UPON YOUR FINGER......STOP !!!! LET GO THE BUTTON !!!!!!!
ALWAYS LEAVE A HALF A INCH - - SO THAT, IF IT FAILS TO RELEASE
NEXT TIME TO PUT TOP DOEN, YOU CAN ALWAYS REVERSE AND MAKE IT GO DOWN, THIS WILL FREE IT UP

IF IT IS ALLL THE WAY DOWN, NICE 'N TIGHT...YOU HAVE NO PLACE TO GO WITH IT.

[Rainmanoly]

I send in my 7 year old son. (My arms are to thick to sqeeze in) I haven't done this for awhile, you will come across this bell-housing looking thing. Put a small strap wrench, big channel locks, what have you on it. Have some one push the button. Help it, remember this thing is the crappiest feature of the car. Be gentel, try to feel and listen.....

[#67 Black Mac']

Sorry, I got nothing. Mine are both Capri's, so they have a latch hook, not a screw. As such, both the top to tonneau and tonneau to body can be manually latched and unlatched. Don't really need the power actuation.

Sorry, I didn't realize that my first post "temporary solution" only applied to the Capris. I wasn't aware that the lockdowns are different on the Mustangs.

The Capri manual system is so easy to use as Keith says, "Don't really need the power actuation", that is why I haven't found if necessary to repair mine!
Ron

[RareFox]

Felt absolutely compelled to chime in on this one since ironically I just went through this EXACT scenario last week. Never had one lick of trouble with my top screw/motor... until it decided it just wouldn't release one day recently. It would allow me to screw it even further down (!!), but not back up. Yes, I freaked out. Truth is, I suspect I caused the problem myself by not obeying Sandys prior words as the gospel... I must've held the button down too long the last time I put the top back up and overtensioned the mechanism. This binds the internal gears (its a worm-type setup), and it then won't release. Listen to the man... he KNOWS... and I sure won't make the same mistake twice.

In any event, at some point I'm going to write a VERY involved report on my findings with the top release motor (I dug deep afterward and tore the thing completely apart photographing every step of the way), but in a nutshell a friend and I devised a method that I can assure you WILL work. Unfortunately the way ASC designed the electrical circuit 20+ years ago, the release solenoid is on the same side of the circuit as the UP direction for the release motor... so the motor itself only receives roughly 7 volts or so according to a digital multimeter... NOT the full 12+ that should be provided by your cars electrical system. Even taking the solenoid power connection out of the circuit in this instance wasn't even enough to get the motor to release its death grip. You could try that first as its very easy to disconnect the solenoid (1 wire), but in my case, I definitely jammed it good and tight. Was forced to break out the heavy artillery. Yes, the low voltage design issue IS part of the overall problem here but I digress...

Anyhow, top stuck you say? I feel your pain friend. Here's how you'll get yourself out of the jam... literally and figuratively. This procedure might work best with a helper. It took a few hours of poking, prodding, testing and head-scratching to devise... but the point is... it worked!

Pop the rear of the tonneau cover (I'm assuming your release solenoid still works). Now lift it as far up as you can until it gives significant resistance, but DO NOT force it any further. At this point you should have a tight, 2-to-3 inch gap to work with while leaning over the trunk lid and looking forward. Have a flashlight handy. Locate the 2-wire connector that visually disappears up under the tonneau ahead of where the solenoid release mechanism is. This is the wiring connector for the motor. The motor sits directly ahead of the release solenoid, but is unfortunately stuffed behind a reinforcement bulkhead that makes access from behind nearly impossible. No worries. Separate the wiring quick-connector. Now, utilizing a portable jump box, a fully charged motorcycle battery, or even the battery in your car (if you have a long enough piece of wire to stretch from the front... I chose to use a jump box), get a pair of small alligator type clips carefully connected to the terminals in the wiring connector. Make sure they aren't touching! Now, cross your fingers, say 7 Hail-Mary's, and apply the full 12 volts from your auxiliary power source directly to the motor. If you accidently have the polarity reversed you'll see the motor instantly start pulling the top further DOWN, which is obviously what we don't want, so just quickly reverse the terminal connections. I can virtually guarantee if you follow these steps it WILL release your top. Tapping the connection on/off can also provide an extra jolt to the gears if necessary but mine literally went right up.

Personally I wasn't satisfied with this as a permanent solution though. Poor engineering isn't something I tolerate well, so more information on this topic to follow... hopefully including a modification that'll provide a long-term cure so it'll never happen again. Isn't working on old cars fun? Good luck with this method - if anyone opts to try it, please let me know how it works for you.


P.S. This is only for the 1987 - 1990 cars obviously.

[90asc]

Thanks for the info. Yesterday I unbolted the tonneau cover and started messing around with it. When I plugged it back in it went up. I don't know how but I'm not going to ask. Thanks for every ones help.

[avmtdan]

Im wondering if the relay is going bad, going down but not up indicates the motor wiring is in good shape. Also, anyone tried pushing down on the top near the bow screw while the switch is pushed up to see if getting the pressure off the motor always it to turn?

[RareFox]

Im wondering if the relay is going bad, going down but not up indicates the motor wiring is in good shape. Also, anyone tried pushing down on the top near the bow screw while the switch is pushed up to see if getting the pressure off the motor always it to turn?

Yep, tried pushing down at the center of the top bow while holding the switch to attempt to take the load off the worm screw... to no avail. We didn't find any relay in the wiring, just the rocker switch behind the drivers seat which is apparently designed to carry heavy loads. It is wired with a fairly heavy gauge and all of it appears to still be in excellent shape, even after 2 1/2 decades. The problem is, voltage is much higher in the 'Down' direction as measured by a voltmeter directly at the motor. It is also audible. Even when running properly, the motor spins notably faster down than up. Give it a try. What happened to mine is the motor jammed internally under tension. It took extra voltage directly applied to free it from the tonneau screw. I suspect this is what happens to most of them if the top is accidentally drawn down too far. Once freed, it spun on its own, but I could still hear drag... which is why I opted for a full teardown and inspection. The brushes even fell out while it was apart. Now THAT was fun. Not.

The release solenoid operates only with the switch held in the 'Up' position and was wired by the factory into the same circuit as the motor. As long as you're holding the switch engaged, the solenoid is also being held energized. Not a great design... and that's being kind. It only needs to make momentary contact to release the tonneau. I'm considering adding an auxiliary push-button.

If anyone would like to perform some simple voltage tests on their properly working car and report the findings I'm certain it would be greatly appreciated by many more owners than just myself. Only takes a matter of minutes and a $5 buck meter from Harbor Freight. Everyone should have one in their tool arsenal... and these cars aren't getting any younger!