Windshield molding

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fetdex
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Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2012 8:26 pm
Location: Port Coquitlam BC Canada

Windshield molding

Post by fetdex »

Okay so I bought my replacement molding and was shipped to me with no problem, I just wanted to let everyone know this is not an easy task it is very difficult to make it fit, Not only are all four bolt holes not in the correct position but neither are the center posts holes to latch your roof down, remember the replacement is fibreglass it is not as flexible as the plastic one from the factory. The fiberglass one also does not have a channeling to meet up with the inside window moulding. You will have to Dremel a channel in there. You also have a very little tolerance for it to fit. As each of the windshields are bent the top area above The windshield looks like it is hand hammered and is not all the same height. Therefore rubbing on the new windshield moulding. To be honest I think it was a waste of money I think I could've spent a lot less time trying to get my old one plastic welded if you can do that go for. I would say if you had the time it would take you a whole day at least eight hours to come close to fitting it right. And even then I can't guarantee it. Then add the fact that you have to have it painted, Also crossing your fingers the color matches,
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negusm
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Post by negusm »

Handmade cars are handmade.

When your job is done I am sure it will look great. It's just one of those things we have to do with our cars. I know the body guy cussed at the front air dam on my car. It took him hours to cajole it into the correct position.

The new fiberglass part should hold up longer than the old plastic one. Even if you fixed the plastic part, you know it's only a matter of time before it's going to crack in another spot.

Post some pics of your work, I am sure the group would love to see it.

-Mike
1985 ascMcLaren Coupe - Midnight Blue
Under Restoration
fetdex
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Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2012 8:26 pm
Location: Port Coquitlam BC Canada

Post by fetdex »

yes me bad.
I keep forgetting they are hand made.
I will try and take some pictures.
i also noticed the new moulding is too thick .
when i try and fasten down the roof the moulding rises about 7 inches from the bottom of the windshield.I have to ask my Fiberglas guy friend if this can be bent back down to meet the car as there is no way the butyl tape is going to keep this from coming off.
also a quick note,do not get your moulding painted till you have done everything you can to fit it. I have had to cancel this appointment till i can get it to fit.
cheers jim
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negusm
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Post by negusm »

I would call Hank, where you got it, and ask him about fitment.

If you explain how it isn't fitting right, maybe he can find a better piece for you or give you some tips on how to get it to fit.

If it doesn't fit, it doesn't fit. There is only so much machining/massaging you can do. With repro parts like this, I would expect SOME reworking.

Hank needs to know about it not fitting like that though.

Some pics of the problem would be great because I know other people will be running into this eventually.

-Mike
1985 ascMcLaren Coupe - Midnight Blue
Under Restoration
fetdex
Posts: 10
Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2012 8:26 pm
Location: Port Coquitlam BC Canada

Post by fetdex »

So after about five hours .i was able to mount the trim to the car. The top area.
In this process I had to remove the inside trim and the visors.
The holes that are mounted to the top windshield needed to be spaced and brought up to make up for the thicker windshield trim ( this is that oval piece that the top clamps screw into)
The reason to do this is the top will not clamp down because it's too tight.
This should be the first thing you do when putting on the new trim even before you do the screw placement holes.(on the windshield moulding trim)
. I was able to loosen them from underneath as a coworker held the top and windshield trim. while I adjusted the slack so both could finally seat correctly with each other .you will be able to guess at the strength it takes to fasten down the top .....this is your new gap you will have to fill in later with a costom spacers
Only after you do this can you carefully loosen the top and keeping the windshield trim firmly in the same spot carefully transfer the holes from the new trim to the car and drill new holes to mount it.
You have options where you want the holes you could guess and just keep dremeling the ones they gave you larger and larger till they line up with the old ones or just make new ones and keep the trim looking nice with where they are .
I took lots of pictures .im not sure when I'll post them .right down to the new spacers that make it so you can close and seal the top.
Please remember this is a big job and takes lots of time with the new moulding coming off and on. Do not paint it till your trim fits great and you actually put it all back together minus the brutal buetael tape.sorry forgot the spelling.

My next task is to try and heat the windshield trim with a heat gun .my fibre glass specialist said that you have a little bit of flex if its warm .like on a hot summer day.as the inside of trim is painted black ill let it sit in the sun to get hot then add more heat with the heat gun......then mount it and try and tape down the two lower bottom pieces that will not sit down on the windshield. He said it will then have to sit for a day or two to cool and take on the new shape. Like I said before not a small task. But I still love my asc. And ya I've been cursing lots. Jim
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CocoLoco
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Post by CocoLoco »

Wow. I just bought the new molding, etc. from Hank and was going to tackle it this winter. But after your ordeal, I'm having second thoughts. But I do have a nice crack in the driver's side corner, so it really needs fixed or replaced. I think I'm gonna think some more on this before I start.

Thanks for sharing your experience with this. If I do go forward, it will help having fewer surprises. And pictures would be a great help as well.
1985 Red ascMcLaren Convertible #218
1990 Seafoam Auqa ascMcLaren Convertible #263
2001 Yellow Mustang Convertible
1977 Red Bonneville Coupe
fetdex
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Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2012 8:26 pm
Location: Port Coquitlam BC Canada

Post by fetdex »

my windshield trim is off to painters and will be back on monday,I have the week to get it all ready for our city car show next sunday.
altho its time consuming im sure this will look great when done.
If you can make the old one last by getting it plastic welded I would recommend it.
mine was destroyed when the wind caught it and ripped it to bits.
My fiberglass guy was right.....heating the new one up with sunshine and then adding a heat gun I was able to get it down and i used packing tape to secure it to the windshield .....inside and out .it looked really bad but the key is having it lay as flat as possible then cool and have a new memory . when I removed tape two days later it had a new shape and fit well. :D
my only concern now is if the inside header trim fits back in the same spot.this is really bad two.its to bad i couldnt do all of it at the same time but we are talking big costs.
with the outter and new seal and paint.its 900.00
we are not taliking my own time as thats a labour of love and you cant count that.
My car will be in the Mustang ally part of the car show.looking forward to this event.its my city 100th birthday and the 9th annual Port Coquitlam Car Show.
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CocoLoco
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Post by CocoLoco »

I think I might try the fix-it first. I have a REALLY good body guy who could likely handle it. The break is fairly clean and there is enough flex to it that you can push it down flat and get it to align properly. So I think with the right fix, it might work out OK. The interor trim has one very small crack that is oly noticable if you look for it. That said, it does seem extreme to replace it all if I don't have to.

Thanks for sharing all your ec=xperiences and good luck a the show !!!
1985 Red ascMcLaren Convertible #218
1990 Seafoam Auqa ascMcLaren Convertible #263
2001 Yellow Mustang Convertible
1977 Red Bonneville Coupe
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