engine bay cleaning

75coug · Post by **75coug** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 2:43 pm

At the suggestion of one of the guys in my local club, I did a little engine cleaning and spray down of the ascMcLaren. The cleaner did a pretty good job, but now the car won't start. It tries and tries, but just won't do it. Grr.

The most irritating thing is that this car always started up immediately in the past. I followed the instructions on the can of engine cleaner, including starting it and letting it run for fifteen minutes immediately after the cleaning. (That was the last time that it started.)

Does anyone have any ideas on where I went wrong? (Keep in mind that I have zero mechanical ability.)

I am excited to get my new top installed, as well as the seats fixed up, but obviously I cannot do so until the car will start. I would like to avoid having it towed in for a repair if at all possible.

ChuckG · Post by **ChuckG** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 2:59 pm

Money says you've doused your distributor and it needs to be dried out.

Power washing an engine is always risky and should be done with extreme care.

That comes from someone who's done it wrong....

75coug · Post by **75coug** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 3:38 pm

The distributor has that little plastic cover on it, but I suppose that some water could have gotten under it. How long would it take to dry? It's been well over a week already.

n20capri · Post by **n20capri** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 9:01 pm

Pop the distributor cap and spray a little WD-40 in there. I used to detail cars and every once in a while I'd have that problem and that would do the trick!

toddf · Post by **toddf** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 9:16 pm

It if is turning over, that means the battery is strong enough to turn the starter, and the engine turns over. I would start by checking the 1) distributor 2) wires going from distributor to the spark plugs 3) the coil wires (on drivers side of engine bay on fendor) 4) the wires going to the alternator.

That still leaves the possibility that it could be a shorted out alternator. You can have it tested, along with the battery, at no charge at a local Advanced Auto or Auto Zone. As far as the distributor goes, it would be very easy to replace the rotor, and very cheap.

If high pressure was used, good chance you blew off a wire or forced water into an electrical plug. The water can stay in there for weeks if it is a sealed connector. The seal would keep our everyday moisture, but not pressured water. Once the water gets in, it has no way of getting out.

If none of this works, i would replace spark plug wires, distributor wires, distributor, and the coil, in that order. This can be done by anyone with a decent repair manual. You can pick one of these up at the auto store as well.

I hope this helps. Let us know how it goes.

Post by **negusm** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 10:12 pm

A shorted alternator shouldn't prevent the car from starting. Only from charging the battery.

Check the dizzy cap and plugs first.

this is going to be an electrical problem of some kind unless somehow your electric fuel pump died at the same time.

-Mike

plumkrazy · Post by **plumkrazy** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 10:24 pm

Make sure the Battery stays Charged up All the cranking will wear the battery down and make for a weak spark plug spark if/or when it does spark. Which a weak spark will make it harder for it to start.

ChuckG · Post by **ChuckG** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 11:29 pm

I've seen half a cup-plus in a distributor before.

Odds are that or as has been said, water forced into a plug coupling. Just as hard for water to escape as it is to enter in those fittings.

Common in newer four-bangers is flooding the plug holes. That's a treat to dry.

A sponge or absorbent towel, maybe a hair dryer, should be effective tools for this project.

tfs2121 · Post by **tfs2121** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 4:42 am

i am willing to bet you killed your ignition moduel on the side of the distributor.

toddf wrote:If none of this works, i would replace spark plug wires, distributor wires, distributor, and the coil, in that order.

whats a "distributor wire"?

toddf · Post by **toddf** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 2:38 pm

Please keep in mind the original poster said they have no mechanical ability, so in an attempt to help, I used terms that a basic mechanic can understand. A distributor wire is one of 9 wires located on top of the distributor. 8 wires are also called spark plug wires, because they go from the distributor to the spark plug. The 9th wire, the wire in the center, which goes to the coil, is the most important. If that wire is loose, or disconnected it would result in the exact symptoms mentioned in the post.

As a side note, the ignition module can be taken to an advanced auto and tested. I am not sure if other stores would test it or not. I know this because my son works at one.

Hope this helps.

ChuckG · Post by **ChuckG** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 3:44 pm

If memory serves, the module uses a unique 5.5 mm hex bit. It's not in any set I've ever bought. You'll have to buy one separately.

Also: stick with Motorcraft on the electronics. The module in particular. It will have a "limp home" mode that cheaper versions don't.

That mode allows the car to be driven, albeit running a bit rougher to let you know it needs attention. That can be the difference between an annoyance and being stranded.

75coug · Post by **75coug** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 6:27 pm

Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I also truly appreciate you dumbing the terms down for me. When I get home in a couple of days, I will try the recommended remedies and report on my level of success.

tfs2121 · Post by **tfs2121** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 12:55 pm

the module uses a 5.5mm hex socket. you should beable to buy one in 1/4" drive at sears. also some auto parts stores sell a 5.5mm tool just for this job.

i would start with the module. if it has never been replaced before i would FOR SURE start with it.

i think Mike N was selling some motorcraft ones afew months ago. maybe he still has some left?

Post by **negusm** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 10:28 pm

I sold all of them.

Ford has some at full price...or you can try aftermarket to just get it to start.

-Mike

75coug · Post by **75coug** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 3:25 pm

I finally gave up, fearing that I would make the problem worse. I used good ol' AAA to tow it in for me. The mechanic decided that there were connection issues due to water, and he had it started in no time. It still runs a little rougher than it did earlier, though.

Oh well, at least now I can take it in to have the new top installed and the seats worked on.

Thanks again, guys.