Correct ground effects?

massrog · Post by **massrog** » Fri Jul 02, 2021 10:48 pm

Hello I am looking at purchasing this '85 convertible but I can't find any images of this ground effects pkg. on any other car. Can anyone here identify it. I would greatly appreciate any input!!!
Thanks,
RogerG

KHummel66 · Post by **KHummel66** » Sat Jul 03, 2021 2:09 am

None of that is correct.

Post by **negusm** » Sat Jul 03, 2021 4:59 am

That is an aftermarket setup for a Fox Mustang but not an asc.

Looks nice though.

-Mike

massrog · Post by **massrog** » Sat Jul 03, 2021 5:20 am

negusm wrote:That is an aftermarket setup for a Fox Mustang but not an asc.

Looks nice though.

-Mike

Thanks mike! Now the question is if a "modified" (otherwise stock) 26k car is worth $11,000? I had no question until I noticed the different skirts. What think you all? It needs a top and a flasher along with a good detail (maybe a seat cover).
https://postimg.cc/gallery/RHLK52b

Post by **negusm** » Wed Jul 14, 2021 1:29 pm

IMHO, if it runs right and it needs minimal work, I think it's worth it.

If it needs an engine/engine rebuild...then no.

Parts and labor add up fast to get a car up to snuff.

svo413 · Post by **svo413** » Wed Jul 14, 2021 7:59 pm

Expect to pay $2k for a top and $2k for seats.

massrog · Post by **massrog** » Wed Jul 14, 2021 10:23 pm

negusm wrote:IMHO, if it runs right and it needs minimal work, I think it's worth it.

If it needs an engine/engine rebuild...then no.

Parts and labor add up fast to get a car up to snuff.

Thanks for weighing in! Like I say it needs new plastic in the top or a new top (I'll likely do the top) and dye on the driver bolster (the leather is fine, finish flaked). The most worrisome thing to me is a draw on the battery as electric work is time consuming. The car runs/drives fine other than flat spotted tires.
Has new struts/shocks, rebuilt carb etc.

Post by **negusm** » Thu Jul 22, 2021 8:41 pm

Electrical work on these cars is easy. No computers. Just 12v here, ground there.

Parasitic draw is super easy on these cars. Just put an ammeter in-line with the battery and start pulling fuses. Whatever circuit stops drawing the parasitic draw if your circuit.

It's almost always an aftermarket sound or security system.

massrog · Post by **massrog** » Fri Jul 23, 2021 12:51 am

negusm wrote:Electrical work on these cars is easy. No computers. Just 12v here, ground there.

Parasitic draw is super easy on these cars. Just put an ammeter in-line with the battery and start pulling fuses. Whatever circuit stops drawing the parasitic draw if your circuit.

It's almost always an aftermarket sound or security system.

Thanks very much for the advice! I guess I'll invest in an ammeter tomorrow!

Post by **negusm** » Fri Jul 23, 2021 2:11 pm

massrog wrote:
negusm wrote:Electrical work on these cars is easy. No computers. Just 12v here, ground there.

Parasitic draw is super easy on these cars. Just put an ammeter in-line with the battery and start pulling fuses. Whatever circuit stops drawing the parasitic draw if your circuit.

It's almost always an aftermarket sound or security system.
Thanks very much for the advice! I guess I'll invest in an ammeter tomorrow!

Well, get a MULTIMETER and you'll get a voltage meter, ammeter and be able to test for continuity. I'm not sure if they sell a basic ammeter except maybe for commercial use.

Have you ever done any electrical work? I suggest a bunch of YouTube videos. I would start with basic multimeter functions and end up with parasitic drain.

I would learn how to do the "in-series" parasitic drain detection method instead of adding up all the voltage drops at the fuse box as that is a bit more complicated.

massrog · Post by **massrog** » Fri Jul 23, 2021 8:13 pm

Well I decided I'd try a test light and checked every circuit in the fuse box and no luck. Every one lit the light when checked without the fuse. The one thing I found was a 15 amp in the warning indicator lamps socket which is supposed to have a 10 amp. I guess I will have to get an appt with the local auto electric shop as I don't want to tear into thing any further as I have no expertise.

massrog · Post by **massrog** » Sat Jul 24, 2021 1:01 am

After some thought I figured I'd ask if there is any other fuse box for the convertible top systems or if they were incorporated into the "factory" wiring? As stated above I removed each fuse in the "factory" box and still had a draw on each so I wondered if ASSC might have added one somewhere else?

massrog · Post by **massrog** » Sat Jul 24, 2021 4:17 pm

I don't know if anybody here remembers the saying :"Kilroy was here" from WWII but I would like to change it to "Bubba was here". Most of you will know what I mean. while under the dash I noticed a piece of perforated steel strap bolted to the frame under the center of the dash

and just below that tucked neat as you please between the tunnel and the frame but not plugged into anything was what I've since discovered my black box relay

I'm guessing I've likely found my "short".

Post by **negusm** » Wed Jul 28, 2021 3:25 pm

Yeah, that looks suspect to me.

If I were a dictator, electrical modifications of cars would be punishable by death. People just hack and slash electrical systems then wonder why it has a parasitic drain or are popping fuses.

Any higher amp fuse that is put in to fix a blown fuse is done by an absolute moron.

This is how cars burn to the ground.

Glad you found it...or most of it. Never know where Bubba will strike next!